A widely misused opportunity...
If you make a search for "natural perfume" you will find in Internet thousands of websites promoting "natural" perfumes although most of those perfumes are not 100% natural.
The definition "natural" is still not protected by law in cosmetics and perfumery!
For food ingredients in the meantime the law protects the definition "Natural"!
You will find in promotional descriptions of synthetically scented products the misleading mention of natural sources defining olfactive effects that do not come from natural stuffs itself in the product but from synthetic ingredients contained in it.
Because the promoters say to believe that these stuffs are identical or similar to natural stuffs they have the right to define their scented products as if they come from nature, making the impression that those products are fully natural! The so called "Natural Perfumes"
Have you ever heard a word about any synthetic stuff in conventional perfumes (although they are full of them) ?!
Never will ever any person hear a word about any of the thousands of synthetic stuffs used in perfumery actually.
When they write about the scent of " Italian iris ", this may be the result of the only use of synthetic irones. When they write about the nice" Indian jasmine" inside, they have in mind really synthetic jasmones! And all this is still today allowed... as a kind of poetry of possible chemical effects (called nicely "semantic" ) in the olfactive mind of the clients who inhale at the end this secret synthetic cocktail still called only "Perfume"!
They even may write about the scent of a special kind of rose inside the promoted perfume, only because in the recipe they may have used any synthetics that are similar compounds to that blossom effect in nature... Yes, they can! This is the sad reality for those who smell and decides to acquire the nice smelling "natural" scent before thinking...
Others, at this point would start searching, if an obligatory INCI is attached to the product, they will start reading. If not found: asking for an INCI- declaration to KNOW at the end what is inside the product. How to be sure?
INCI, the opportunity for decent natural perfumes and natural cosmetic makers:
Many already have opted to specify in their INCI declaration on their real natural products, (as if what they offer were food): "Perfume (100% natural)" so that clients know that inside these natural perfumes and organic perfumes, natural cosmetic and organic cosmetic lines, there is only 100% natural stuffs and not a mix of different synthetics with, maybe, some natural stuffs diluted in denaturized alcohol!
This is the only way that this "Natural") declaration is protected by law. Outside this INCI declaration the definition "Natural" for perfumery or cosmetics IS NOT PROTECTED BY LAW
Those kinds of perfumes with a synthetic part, does not matter how small or big this part is, use on their declaration , if any available (!) only: PERFUME
In Islamic countries and in the USA you must be very careful choosing real natural perfumes due to the obligation of denaturize alcoholic products.
Mostly the used stuff is: Methyl ester of phtallic acid.
Be careful, ask for " (100% natural) " in the INCI declaration on the products itself if you want to be sure about the origin of all ingredients of a real natural perfume.
Who can believe, rely on those companies doing "natural perfumes" or cosmetics but not writing it specifically on their products!??
They will always talk about the goodness of stuffs they may have inside (or in mind) but about the many synthetics that the makers use they will never lose a word about. How long?
Other way to call real natural non animal containing perfumes may be also:„ all (100% ) botanical perfume " or " botanical vegan perfume " (real natural and animal free).
But, be careful:
The definition: "botanical perfume" (like "natural" ) is not protected by law, and this can be also used for any kind of perfume, even those synthetic containing ones. Only if you find "100%" or "pure" before the description botanical or natural you can be sure that you may have in your hands what you was searching for. To finish the bad news I must also tell that a fully synthetic composed perfume may also be called " vegan perfume " because it does not contain any animal stuffs !
Using INCI is the best way to show unmistakably that a perfume is 100% natural.
INCI and the possible so called allergens.
Now to the new INCI and the problems that this infringes to the real natural perfumers: INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the international worldwide legal and in the EU obligatory standard for the content declaration of any cosmetic product, included perfumes.
The INCI-standard obliges the producer or responsible distributor to write on the product or its leaflet all compounds by its scientific or Latin name. Vegetable compounds are named with their Latin name, chemicals are named with their international recognized chemical name, so that anyone in this world may understand what is inside the product.
Thanks to the search engines in Internet now is possible to find the meaning of all these strange names. It has being done a very good lobby work to block aims of those who wanted that behind "Perfume" or "Fragrance" it should be declared if it is 100% natural (as for food it is today in the EU) or not.
Today the only obligatory definition for ANY mix of scent stuffs in the INCI is generally:
"Perfume", "Flavor" or "Fragrance". The mix of stuffs that are hidden behind the INCI´s allowed "Perfume", " Flavor " or " Fragrance " come into our blood over the skin, the lungs through inhalation while breathing the air surrounding us or smelling it directly from the skin. Due to these facts, we believe, it should be unmistakable explained in the INCI what really the source of this secret ingredient mix is called "Perfume" or "Fragrance".
The new (old) allergens that must be declared in the new INCI:
The fragrance, pharmacy and chemical industry has demonstrated scientifically that many natural isolated stuffs - normally contained in hundreds of essential oils - and their synthetic copies (so called natural identical) - are potential allergens.
Experts know that all these isolates are never as allergenic as the isolates if found in a complex relationship in their original essential oils as found in nature.
The list of those allergens that must be declared at the INCI now (6/2011) if they are found in a cosmetic product, or perfume, and in different ways depending on the concentration in the products are today (the list may be enhanced soon):
AMYL CINNAMAL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, CINNAMYL ALCOHOL, CITRAL, EUGENOL, HYDROXYCITRONELLAL, ISOEUGENOL, AMYLCINNAMYL ALCOHOL, BENZYL SALICYLATE, CINNAMAL, COUMARIN, GERANIOL, HYDROXYISOHEXYL 3-CYCLOHEXENE CARBOXALDEHYDE, ANISE ALCOHOL, BENZYL CINNAMATE, FARNESOL, BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL, LINALOOL, BENZYL BENZOATE, CITRONELLOL, HEXYL CINNAMAL, LIMONENE, METHYL 2-OCTYNOATE, ALPHA- ISOMETHYL IONONE, EVERNIA PRUNASTRI EXTRACT, EVERNIA FURFURACEA EXTRACT
The only one fully synthetic one in the list, not found in nature is: BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL
Isn´t strange that among the thousands of cosmetic ingredients there are today available that quite only natural allergens are discovered in cosmetic ingredients?!
IFRA is trying to forbid the use of hundreds of essential oils in the USA ! Why haven't they done the same allergy tests with thousands of synthetic perfumes stuffs (over 5000 commercially offered stuff mixes today!) normally used in perfumery?
Maybe there is a connection between testers and producers or users???
Did Clinton inhale?
You will see that we do not declare all of those stuffs at our INCIs , but a lot of them, in all of our creations. For instance oak moos extract (Evernia Prunasti) is found only in oak moos extract. But Geraniol is found in geranium oil, rose, palmarosa, davana, etc. Coumarin is found naturally contained in Tonka beans and hew Absolue as well as Steinklee, etc.Citral in all agrumen oils, Cinnamyl alcohol and Cinnamal, etc. in lot of oils related with cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, etc. and so on. With Cinnamom there is another problem as a natural flavor (as with Coumarin) and levels must be respected. We see this development as an attempt to mislead people about the goodness of natural scented cosmetics and perfumes, yes, the goodness of nature. As Paracelsus said: Everything is medicine and poison at the same time. The dose makes the difference!
With enough money anybody can also proof that oxygen or water can be dangerous to your health…
The EU is trying now to implement new laws for tests of all chemicals before they are lanced to the market... We hope to have here soon good news...
More about allergenic synthetics in perfumery: watchcrop.org
Today the only obligatory definition for ANY mix of scent stuffs in the INCI is generally: "Perfume", "Flavour" or "Fragance".
Natural perfumes ?